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4.26.2009

GIANT'S FOOT, NICARAGUA

 1 snapped surfboard.
2 broken motors.
3 nights scrumbling on the beach.
4 friends' shit scattered about the boat.
5 times caught hopelessly inside.
6 ounce tumblers of Flor De Cana.
7 meter kite sessions.
8 different surfspots.
9 rides of my life.
10 second rides in the washing machine.
11 new friends.
12 months from now I'll be God know's where...
...right now, Foot of the Giant, Nicaragua.
MAX