I've been surfing with and learning from an interesting character: Kim Hamrock, 2002 Women's World Longboard Champion.
Kim's gotta be somewhere in her 50s. She's got a son 2 years younger than me. She's maybe 5'1", but I wouldn't want to fight her. She surfs a 4'4" twin fin, an absurdly small board. She slashes more aggressively than most of the young Ticos. She's also an artist and a hell of a self-taught musician.
Most importantly, she's nice to everyone. She's always stoked and radiates good energy.
She's got a website: www.dangerwoman.com. The pics are worth checking out. I've seen other pics of her getting destroyed by triple overhead Puerto Escondido beach break... on a longboard.
Today her, roomie Natalie, and four young Aussies are sailing with me to Playa Avellanas.
I'm going to make a few bucks and surf with a great teacher all day... overhead and offshore.
Got an exit strategy? I love y'all.
Max