After a couple weeks out of the water with a third degree burn...
and another couple weeks of rain and sloppy waves...
and because of a few other little things...
my stoke level was at an existential-crisis-initiating low. As in...
What the fuck am I doing here?
Then the clouds parted, waves of energy arrived, and it all came clear.
This morning 8 of us sailed from Gigante in search of waves. We found perfect tubes at Playa Colorado... and had them pretty much all to ourselves.
Luckily, my buddy Noah had his $200 waterproof digicam and the self-control to set down his own board for an hour, during which he captured about 1/100th of the perfect waves nabbed today at Playa Colorado.
David Holloway, 2009 US East Coast Champion, in the middle of a "9 second" tube he immediately proclaimed the greatest wave of his life.
Seamus on the shoulder.
Bryce lining up a barrel.
Seamus tucking in.
Madison out front.
Is that really me?
Unknown working.
David "Gary Hongos" Holloway making it look easy.
Nicaraguan Local Elbin on one of his smaller waves.
Good thing we're all friends.
Me en route to yet another lesson about commitment.
We'll be up at dawn again Manana. Well, maybe.
Since it's supposed to blow offshore all day it doesn't really matter when we surf.
Get Out,
Max
and because of a few other little things...
my stoke level was at an existential-crisis-initiating low. As in...
What the fuck am I doing here?
Then the clouds parted, waves of energy arrived, and it all came clear.
This morning 8 of us sailed from Gigante in search of waves. We found perfect tubes at Playa Colorado... and had them pretty much all to ourselves.
Luckily, my buddy Noah had his $200 waterproof digicam and the self-control to set down his own board for an hour, during which he captured about 1/100th of the perfect waves nabbed today at Playa Colorado.
David Holloway, 2009 US East Coast Champion, in the middle of a "9 second" tube he immediately proclaimed the greatest wave of his life.
Seamus on the shoulder.
Bryce lining up a barrel.
Seamus tucking in.
Madison out front.
Is that really me?
Unknown working.
David "Gary Hongos" Holloway making it look easy.
Nicaraguan Local Elbin on one of his smaller waves.
Good thing we're all friends.
Me en route to yet another lesson about commitment.We'll be up at dawn again Manana. Well, maybe.
Since it's supposed to blow offshore all day it doesn't really matter when we surf.
Get Out,
Max