10.04.2008

Smackdown.

Good days in Bandon end with Burritos at La Fiesta and dreams of Mexican wind and waves.

Bad days end with Spam Goulash and nightmares about Whitey.

Yesterday was a bad day.


Personally, hailing from the Land of 10,000 Lakes, I'm terrified of every part of the ocean where I can't touch. God only knows what BEASTIES lurk in the abyss. For all I know, those BEASTIES could've eaten God centuries ago. That'd explain a few things.

But I digress.

As is becoming oddly typical, we ran into our dear friend _______ just as we were loading up the Zodiac to head for the beach.


While ripping feathers from the recently gunned-down geese, ______ assured me the community will find Mac and I jobs if we don't make it out of here before winter hits...

...a very nice gesture.

The offer tempts, but Baja beckons beyond this dreary sportsmen's paradise named Bandon.

Bandon really is a sportsmen's paradise. The relatively healthy, dam-free Coquille River flows into the North Pacific here. The nutrient rich fresh water and fish spawning habitat allows life to flourish.

The place teems with crabs, fish, birds of all sorts, and hundreds of cuddly Harbor Seals.


The other day a playful seal followed me around while I was kiting. I hadn't had that much fun with a critter since a goofy coyote chased my kite in Wyoming.

Cruising in the dinghy yesterday, we came across 30-50 seals hanging out in a shallow bay behind the jetty.


They'd bob up and down, peeking their little heads out. It reminded me of the Chuckie Cheese game where you whack seals or clowns or gophers with a club.

The really brave seals came up to the dinghy and tried to splash us. Mac wanted to swim with them, and all I could say was:

"Dude. Don't"

They weren't very welcoming. Frankly, I had the impression we were intruding on some sort of seal orgy. That little cove seemeed just a little too cozy.

It was a good day to stay in bed. Those seals and most of the rest of Bandon did. A major cold front had it gusting close to 80 at Cape Blanco. Mixed swell from the S and W at 10-14 feet. Mac and I decided to test our limits.


Around 2pm when we were kiting it was averaging 62mph at Blanco. More protected, Bandon was hovering in the mid-30s... but holey and gusty simultaneously.


Mmmmmmmm. Gritty.


Shameless product shot two. Mac opted to try out his new 09' Naish Thorn. He was feeling "boosty" until we launched and realized the wind was truly dogshit.

Between the gusty/holey/swirly wind and incomprehensible jumble of big breaking waves it was survival kiting at its finest. We both crashed our kites within the first 15 minutes and amazingly got them relaunched unscathed.

Adding to the chaotic mix, the storm had uprooted whole forests of Bull Kelp, leaving the stuff floating everywhere.


A strapless kiter has no choice but to dodge the floating fire-hose-like stalks, which made things even more complicated.

My head didn't stop turning the whole time I was out there. Between watching swells, waves, wind on the water, bull kelp, my kite, and where I was in relation to the shore it proved a stressful experience.

A 6.5 Bandit left me extremely underpowered and looping through the lulls. On his 9 Torch Mac was getting tossed during the gusts and loving the lulls. Nevertheless, we told ourselves this was "fun" and kept at it.

Mac was riding a 9 because that's his smallest kite. That's how he "rolls".

Anyway, I crest a swell and almost run over a large, freshly-mangled seal. My mind fills with images.


and...


and...


Suddenly, I decide my knee feels a little creaky... better head in.

I hit the shore and land my kite. Looking back out there, I can't see Mac's kite anywhere.

I run up the dunes and look out over the water. After a few minutes I spot it, floundering in the water atop a swell about 400 yards off shore.

Then its gone... only to reappear briefly ten seconds later. Big swell.

Mind you, I just saw a freshly murdered seal out there.

As Mac gets closer to shore I can see he's moving and appears to be self-rescuing effectively. The wind is straight sideshore so he's hardly progressing towards shore but he's heading downwind wonderfully.

Fifteen minutes later I've befriended the only other folks foolishly optimistic enough to be on the beach on a day like this: English Tourists.

They've kindly offered the use of their phone and a few Oh Henry! bars. If the scent of an Oh Henry! wouldn't attract Mac towards shore, I don't know what would.


Fifteen minutes and five waves on the head later, Mac is safely ashore and we're munching delicious Oh Henry! bars on the beach. He didn't seem near as concerned about the shark out there as I was.

What happened? Cruising along, Mac got lulled and then gusted. When things tightened up, everything but his 5th line broke.

These things only happen to Mac.

We packed up our kites and began the hour upwind slog back to the jetty.

Even after a hearty bowl of spam goulash and several brushings, my teeth still have sand-encrusted Oh Henry! filling the gaps.


Smackdown.

10.02.2008

Sell Stock. Buy Kites.


This place has a stranglehold on "charm" and the kiting is proving excellent as well.

Bandon, Oregon is the kind of town where you'd feel bad spitting on the sidewalk, so people just don't do it. All the loved-looking collarless dogs and cats lounging streetside just wouldn't appreciate.

Plus, like wildfire, word of a "spitter" in town would spread and you'd find yourself kindly and gently evicted from the Marina. Even then, you'd leave happy... if the legitimately terrifying Coquille River Bar didn't eat your boat en route to the sea.

Anything over a 4 foot swell and there's a breaking wave.  Now the swell is 6-8 feet.  We're trapped.

Fortunately, it feels like smalltown Minnesota delicately placed on the seashore.

It's "nice".

Notably, all the public bathrooms are spotless and grafitti free. I met the lady who cleans them. She was scrubbing the sink in a men's room with powdered bleach and a toothbrush.

Amazing.


A salty rotating group of cranberry farmers and fishermen hold down a table in the corner of the coffeeshop. Never fewer than seven, they're talking politics, finances, crop prices, fishery depletion, and a smattering of smalltown news. Once in a while things get heated and someone speaks his peace. These folks are happy.

Its good to witness a functioning community.


While working on the boat the other day we made a dozen friends. Folks strolling by would stop to ask...

"Where'd you come in from?"
or
"Nice boat. What's she draw? Fixed keel?"
or
"Bad weather on the way, you know?"

Just by smiling, chatting, and listening we've gotten loads of good advice from some of the saltiest salts and saltettes imaginable. Even the Harbormaster himself stopped by to offer suggestions on getting around Cape Blanco and into Crescent City, CALIFORNIA safely.

Classic.


We were sitting around yesterday waiting for a friend to bring us promised crabs when suddenly both Mac and I perked up.

Wind. And building.

Suddenly it dawns on me why we're on this little trip. Kiting. My knee felt decent enough for a triple braced attempt at wavekiting.

Vamos!

As we're scrambling to get ready our salty crabber buddy shows up with a bucket of goodies.

MAX: "Sorry ______, no time for crabs. We're going kiting!"
"Awwww shit, I was gonna make you guys pull some pots for me."
MAX: "Sorry. Its windy. This is what we do."
"Alright. You'll hear me shooting at you from the beach."
MAX: "Shooting at us?"
"With my rifle."
MAX: "Ummm, OK. You got a scope on that thing?"
"Nope. Don't need one."
MAX: "Alright. Hope you miss. See ya' later."

And on that strange note we loaded up the dinghy and took off for the best afternoon of wavekiting of our lives... all senses heightened by the slight chance this crazy salt was serious.

I guess I'm swimming.

Shameless product shot. Thanks to Dank Dave @ Dakine.

And after a short walk, the high clouds blew away, and we arrived at intimidating Bullards Beach.


Mac rigged up his 9 Torch and immediately got his ass handed to him by heavy, short period beachbreak combined with a 5-6 knot downwind current. Before I was even rigged he was a halfmile downwind, still trying to stay on his feet and get outside.

After slogging back upwind all he had to say was, "I've never been that scared kiteboarding before." Coming from Mac, that meant alot. Clearly the Gorge and occasional forays to the northern coast didn't prepare us for a day like this.

Intimidated, I considered "nursing my knee" but then the silly technoclassic SANDSTORM by Da Rude came through my headphones and I realized I was being a sallypants.

Mac went out again and bashed his way outside, only to turn around and start smashing waves. Before I knew it, he was half a mile downwind again. He has very little fear or self-control.

Strapless, getting outside was going to be tricky. I walked upwind, looked for a hole, found one, and got outside, first try.

That felt good.

We were too busy to take any good pictures so this is all we got. This is way inside.

Waves breaking a few hundred yards offshore were well overhead and over the course of four hours we scored "the ride of our life" several times.  We also spent plenty of time trolling for "Whitey" after wipeouts.

Most importantly, my knee held up great and Mac eventually came back upwind as well. Rolling over these monsters and looking for our next wave, we whooped it up like two kooks.

Which pretty much sums us up.

I felt like a first season gaper in Jackson Hole all over again. Kiting in waves feels like skiing a neverending, steep, sluffing couloir with shifting walls. I have no doubt that it's the funnest legal activity on the planet. In my opinion, it is the epitome of recreation currently available.

Because it's raining and I've had 32 ounces of caffeine here at the Bandon Coffee Cafe, I made a little map from Bandon Marina to Bullard's Beach.

Go kiting there.


Also exciting, freestyle kiting paradise Floras Lake is a mere 12 miles south of Bandon on US 101. If the weather never mellows and we're stuck here for a few months, I think we'll be OK.

Cold.

Wet.

Inundated with small town gossip.

But HAPPY.

It looks like the weather is going to let us continue South in 4-6 days. Until then...

Here's the wind forecast for tomorrow...

And Saturday...

Combine that with a 12 foot swell from the SW and it looks like we'll have plenty to do. If anyone from the Gorge wants a taste of this, come on down.

You can snuggle with Mac in La Sin Fin's spacious "Salon".

After getting off the water yesterday we were starving. Exploring the small downtown's dining options at dusk we came across a good-smelling restaurant creatively named Thai Thai. Full of patrons, it looked like a winner but they had stopped taking tables... at 7:30. We moseyed to our fallback, the delicious, affordable La Fiesta Mexican Restaurant.

They keep the party hopping until 8:30.

Who needs nightlife when you've got nasty kiting?

Not me.


Sell Stock. Buy Kites.

Max

9.30.2008

VIVIMOS! Sailing Oregon's Columbia River to the Pacific and Turning Left

Note: This is just one of many posts documenting a sailing voyage from Hood River, Oregon to Colombia, South America aboard a $5000 1973 Catalina 27' sailboat named "Sin Fin".

El Viaje Sin Fin (Spanish for "The Trip Without End") was a 19 month adventure with plenty of twists and turns.

Check out an overview of the trip, or start with the first post of this blog.  Peace.

***

It's been a week since the last post. We've wanted to check in daily, but between Max freaking out over little things and/or puking constantly and Mac slaying fish, there just wasn't time.

Plus, it turns out that there's no cell service and hence no poor-yachtsman's-interweb 15-20 miles offshore in the North Pacific.

We didn't die over the course of three nights at sea and now we're at port in BEAUTIFUL Bandon, Oregon... 217.36 fabulous miles south of the notorious, ship-eating Columbia River Bar.

Here's a week of good living crammed into a little slideshow. No justice.

Could this be the best picture I've ever taken? FYI, that's freshly harvested "caviar" in Mac's carvinorous piehole.

We made it to Portland and got the boat hauled out. We're in a hurry to get South but we had to paint the bottom and retrofit some additional keel bolts. As you can see, the hull was DIRTY. Notice that the bottom little bit of the keel is spotless. Mac was kind enough to clean it by running aground on a sandbar just North of Portland. Well done!

If you ever wondered how they haul out superyachts like La Sin Fin, this is how. The boatyard made us wait 36 hours before they'd pull us out and that really chapped my ass.

They also wanted to make us wait to get it back in the water until Monday. Clearly they were trying to charge us for as many days as possible and didn't appreciate our hurry to escape the NW before the fall storms really hit. Otherwise, everyone was really nice and informative at the boatyard.

We were stuck in Portland for three nights watching perfect coastal weather slip away.  This drove Max to the brink of sanity. Fortunately, Justine Jerrel and Randy Bachelor (great name, eh?) put us up and gave us wheels to get shit done.

The friendly "yardmonkeys" in blue jumpsuits put us back in the water without notifying the ass-dragging bosses. As such, the boatyard never got a credit card number from us.

Go ahead and bill me... but what's my address?

Bottom paint is some horribly toxic shit so the uptmost protective measures must be undertaken. Sadly, Max's favorite pair of jeans and his old Jackson Hole employee polo shirt had to be thrown away after the painting project. All the yardmonkeys were quite jealous of the ridiculously steezy ski goggles.

While Max was painting, Mac installed 5 new beefy bolts in the keel. Again, thanks to Winona's own Fastenal for $240 worth of marine grade stainless steel.

We left the boatyard in such a hurry that we left much to be done "en route". FYI, boating and caulking don't mix. All the windows and deckfittings on La Sin Fin look like they came from Santa's Workshop thanks to hearty doses of liberally applied caulk. Importantly, as we discovered at sea, the water stays out.

Cruising down the Columbia River at dusk we came across a sailboat that had run aground. This got us nervous enough to stay attentive as we motored through the night towards the coast. Thanks, fate.

We were happy to pass industrial wastelands like this under cover of darkness. Motoring through the night and hitting Astoria, OR at dawn worked out perfectly. The river isn't exceptionally scenic for the 90 miles from Portland to the Coast... no wind either.

We stopped in Astoria for fuel (oilfreefun... not quite) and then got back at it, hoping to hit the Columbia River Bar when the tide was right. Visibility was somewhere between "horrible" and "supershitty". A hunch said the fog would lift and it did...

Meeting monsters like this in the fog isn't too much fun. Moms and Dads, note our incredible foresight in navigating just outside of the shipping channel. Equally deep water, but less likelihood of getting plastered against a supertanker. We're trying to be safe.

We followed this guy out the Columbia River Bar because he knew where to go. Everyone in Hood River we talked to was freaking out about the terrifying Columbia River Bar. It turned out to be anticlimacticly mellow on account of our intensely-safety-oriented mindsets and parentally-instilled-propensity for planning.

Again, rest easy parents.  We're trying to be safe.

Excitingly, as we crossed the Bar, Max looked below deck to see 6 inches of water had burbled up from the bilge. Too much weight in the stern had put our output hose underwater. The bilgepump proved that it kicks ass in this instance... and we safely negotiated our first technical incident of the trip. Disaster averted.

This may be the biggest boat either of us has ever seen. Its a Chevron Tanker. Without boats like this millions of suburbanites wouldn't be able to commute between pointless jobs and vacant, faceless communities. Yee-haw. Burn it up, suckers.

This was the best picture Max ever took until the one of Mac's massacre. We must have seen three dozen seals out thus far. Great critters, except for when they steal fish off your line.

After we reeled in Mac's first fish, one came right up to the stern of La Sin Fin and gave us the meanest look.

These overgrown aquatic gerbils were pretty cool too. It's amazing what qualifies as a mammal.

On a sailboat with the motor off, you hear the whales before you ever see them. In the middle of the night, their finslapping and spouting can freak you out. The greatest critters on Earth?

Perhaps.

Mac reeled it in and then Golem netted the fish. Golem loves fishies. Golem couldn't wait until Baja to bust out his classic retro Mexico soccer jersey and got it filthy with caulk, fishguts, gasoline, and assorted boatsludge.

C'est la vie.

Our first fish.

The sushichef brutalizing the unborn as he butchers their mother. Gruesome stuff here. I wouldn't have partaken in the sushifeast that followed had we not already eaten through all 20 pounds of candy aboard La Sin Fin. We didn't bother with rice... just soysauce and wasabi. We could have used some spicy aioli mayo stuff but regardless it was the best sushi of my life.

As we dined, the view proved incredible too.


Shortly after this picture was taken, our weather window closed.

"Red sky at night, sailors delight," my ass.

The beautiful N wind we'd been sailing on for 36 hours switched to straight out of the south. We battled upwind for 24 hours and made it about 40 additional nauseating, wet, dreary miles.

Exhausted after four nervewracking nights and with weather forecasted to get worse as the week continues, we pulled in to quaint, sleepy Bandon, OR. And here we are...


It looks like we'll be stuck here until at least the weekend. Fortunately, some of the nicest people on Earth live here... and the kiting looks to be epic.

Ohh yeah, my knee is getting better every day. Good times? Great times.

Sell yer house and buy a boat. Trust me.

Hasta luego, amigos.

Max Mogren

***

Note: This is just one of many posts documenting a sailing voyage from Hood River, Oregon to Colombia, South America aboard a $5000 1973 Catalina 27' sailboat named "Sin Fin".

El Viaje Sin Fin (Spanish for "The Trip Without End") was a 19 month adventure with plenty of twists and turns.

Check out an overview of the trip, or start with the first post of this blog.  Peace.