MORE PANAMA!

YO SUCKAS,

NO TIME TO WRITE MUCH.

STILL IN PANAMA...

ALL IS WELL.

MAX

Lluvia Dura

Lyric of the Day

You got to know when to hold em'...

...know when to fold em'...

Kenny Rodgers, The Gambler

My mother will be happy to hear that I turned around near central Columbia and, 240 ship-dodgingly bluewater miles later, am back in Playa Venao, Panama.

Columbia was a mixed bag and it foreshadowed what would come as Tu Laki and I progressed deeper into South America.  Piracy wasn't a real fear but consistent headwinds and battling currents took what little fun there is in long distance, small-boat sailing out of it.


Also, and more importantly, there were no waves and it turns out surfing is my newest addiction.

My sails are totally shot (think of billowing bedsheets) to the extent where Sin Fin can barely make any headway upwind.  Factor an oppositional current in and sailing backwards became the reality... as such, the only way to make progress was to run the motor... something I hate doing.

I refuse to motor my way to Chile (and I can't afford to do so either) so the new plan is surfing my face off in Panama, Costa Rica, and southern Nicaragua over the next couple months.

I'm hoping to haul the boat out in San Juan Del Sur, Nicaragua where I can drydock it for a mere $3 daily.


Then I'm gonna fix it up as best I can on $0 and put it up for sale.  If it doesn't sell I'll return with new sails after a winter of skiing (and, unfortunately  working) in the J Hole.


In short, I've given up and am a loser.


But if giving up means further exploration of the surf in Central America, I'm already over it.


And if being a loser means being broke and dreamless, may I remind you that at a mere 28 years of age I freely and clearly own my own home... and it floats.


The tears have been shed and the waves are calling right now...


Partially released from delusion,


MAX

Pico De Loro

This left point is somewhere close... and there is a big swell coming in the 22nd-26th.  We are going to find it... and we are going to surf it.  It is near Nuqui.

LOCOMBIA!

A few years back, while buying Lonely Planet´s Trekking in the Patagonian Andes, a buddy at Teton Mountaineering gifted me an old Lonely Planet Columbia Guidebook... and I thought to myself...

WHY THE HELL WOULD I EVER GO TO COLUMBIA?

Well, now I´m there and, FYI, the guidebook hasn´t done a lick of good... regarding the Pacific Coast, only one city, one island, and one small town are even mentioned...

So Tu Laki, Maestra, and I have been navigating based off a napkin drawing from Sarana and the advice of locals we´ve encountered... so far so good.

Leaving Panama took longer than expected because...

...we encountered the second worst storm I´ve met on the ocean... Tu Laki was very frowny.

...indecision about battling currents and winds and guerillas had me second guessing.

...the dog apparently has to poop EVERYDAY now.

...and we stumbled across a bonadied PARAISO en route.

PARAISO? PARADISE. Truly, too. I know... been looking for 10 months now.

Have you ever had 25 curious natives watch you boil pasta over a driftwood campfire?

I have. Turns out the last gringos to stop through came over a year ago. Everyone was ridiculously welcoming... heartachingly so... makes ya wonder why most folks have to be such dicks.

We´ve been cooking on the beach because we ran out of special Mexican latas de butano about two weeks ago and are never gonna find fuel compatible with the stoves we´ve currently got.

A trip to the local welder´s shop is in order. Fortunately Ramen doesn´t really need to be cooked... just soaked in the sun... same with coffee.

Regarding first impressions of Columbia, folks are better organized and things are generally tidier than I´ve encountered in most small towns since leaving the Ooosa. I´m excited for a trip to the hardware store.

The dog is doing great.

I wish I had a camera.

Pretend I´ve been kidnapped by Guerillas and donate ransom money... then we can spice up these posts a bit with some pics.

It feels good to be in South America... as the frigate soars closer to Puerto Montt and the pristine fjords of Chile than to Portland, Oregon and that massive toxic drainage ditch called, coincidentally, El Rio COLUMBIA.

He must have been one hell of a pirate.

Ciao,

MAX

ps I am in Bahia Solano, I think the town is called Mutis. We´ll be here for a few and are then setting sail in search of surf... the next internet connection should be 320 miles (about 10 days) South in Tumaco... a daysail from ECUADOR.

PANAMA!

Hey All,

Lyric of the Day

You take your car to work

I´ll take my board.

And when you´re out of fuel

I´m still afloat.

Weezer, SurfWax USA

Leaving Costa Rica proved easier than expected thanks to running into my good friend, NorCal Landscaper, Tu Laki... the next in my recent string of HETEROSUGARDADDIES.

We surfed Pavones for a few days under the influence of a Japanese Apothecary's Magic Teas and then headed back to Matapalo to sample the goods there as well.

After crossing the border we surfed for a few days in moderate conditions at Santa Catalina (incidentally, the strangest little surf town I've yet to encounter)... before continuing east.

We encountered some of the most miserable current/wind chop of the trip and barely averaged a knot for 12 hours... it was some of the most frustrating sailing of the trip thus far.

Now we're in Panamanian surf paradise Playa Venao enjoying the last of a decent swell before turning North around Punta Mala (BAD POINT) and entering the busiest shipping lanes in the world... all the big boats leaving the Panama Canal have to round the BAD POINT as well... should be an exciting day.

From there we'll be outfitting the boat for a trip into the Darien, and across the Columbian Border... if at all possible we´d like to get our hands on an AK47... travel insurance.

So, that's that...

MAX

PUT IT IN WRITING

Random Lyric of the Day Will Now Be Part of All Updates.


Only the fittest of the fittest shall survive.
Stay alive! Eh!
-Bob Marley (Could You Be Loved)


There's been some serious footdragging in the quest to get the hell on with it.


The typical distractions... sensory stimulation in the form of surf and chasing tail (pathetically out of practice)... had me sidelined cuz I'm looking for any excuse to call quits.


I'm planning one remote stop in Panama and then I'm in Columbia... alone save my non-barking dog... and subject to more verified dangers to gringos.


I met some folks who had guns shoved down their mouths during their first night's stay at a remote anchorage in Columbia. They had a "buddy boat" with them who heard the ruckus and scared off the bandits... had they been alone, who knows.


These things bother me... getting adequate sleep on the boat is hard enough.


The other fear is running out of provisions because, guess what, I'm still broke.


I splurged on a $160 surfboard and am back hovering above debt. Without my sugardaddies aboard I can move much faster and hasslefree but without much of a safety net... aside from parents content to contribute only to EXTRACTION EFFORTS... aka a return to stateside.


Don't think I haven't been tempted... I could be back in the saddle in Jackson Hole within the week... bussing tables to work my way back up to bartender again... saving loot for a betterplaññed escape.


But, really, being broke and scared is what this little mindbender is all about... so I'd best get back onwithit.


My little soiree in paradise went so so. Canadian ski bum types are uniformly friendly and laid-back but they have short memories. I supplied three otherwise extremely expensive boatrides in exchange for $80 and "being taken care of" for a few days... but food was hard to come by and I'm hungrier and broker than before the diversion.


In their defense, they didn't eat much either and I got some amazing fishing tips from my new amigo BEAVER... a serious fishing guide in Costal BC summers.


I The computer is telling me I owe more than I've got in my pocket so I'll have to charm the girl running these computers... good thing my dog is so damn cute.


She got way into chasing lizards in the jungle... it's all she wants to do now. one night she refused to return to the boat... chased lizards all night, I suspect... found her the next morning on the beach... waiting for me with the eyes of a PERRA SALVAJE!



Ohhh yeah, got to crash with a bunch of the best BORDERCROSS snowboarders on the planet... Canadians, Usans, and Euros of all sorts... thanks for the hospitality, gents... and for not kicking my ass.


Catch ya'll on the flipside. I am G.O.N.E.... gone.


MAX

HAPPY 101st POST

This is the 101st post on this silly little blog.

I'm taking advantage of the opportunity to test whether some formatting changes worked.

I sure as shit hope so because all my paragraphs have been getting converted into big blobs of text and I'm sick of it.

It's bad enough not having photos...

UNDISCLOSED LOCATION

The plan was Pavones for a day or two but I made some new friends... 4 Canadian Ski Bums... 3 of whom are beautiful women.

Stoked on fishing, sailing and surfing, I've been chartered by GOOD clients.

After a few days in the crowded waves of Pavones we sailed to a semi-secret paradise which I'm not at liberty to name.

The dog got fleas in Pavones. No bueno... still cute though.

The transom snapped off the dinghy but we barely saved the motor.

This morning we encountered a headless, tailless crocodile floating in the river... hopefully we don't encounter whatever'd been eating it.

As soon as I get off this damn computer I'm going surfing on my new (well used) board. 6 foot classic fish.

UNGA UNGA!

MAX

PAVONES!

Hey All,

6-7 foot swell has me stopped at Pavones... which is breaking a half mile left at the present... I can see it from the beachfront bar/internet cafe from whence I write.

My surfboard fucking sucks... I really miss the board Dave was letting me borrow... cést la vie, no. 

I´ll be here for a few days and then heading for more surf in Santa Catalina, PANAMA.

A local fisherman just informed me that my boat is about to get thrashed... the last set almost took it with.

What a considerate gentleman.

Gotta go.

MAX

TODO ROTO

HEY SITS IN BOX AND OTHERS,

So the crew is back to two post the worst three nights of the trip... no sleep... broken computer... lost camera... etc. The Californicators may come back in a few but for now it's me and Mr. Muras... and I'm loving his considerate company.

My computer broke. I broke it... but I'm blaming the Dutch girl for being passed out where my computer would usually reside mid-voyage.

In her defense, however, she definitely needed the sleep.

We covered 200 miles in 2 days and are now in GOLFITO, southern Costa Rica. We're hanging at LAND/SEA, the chillest cruiser hangout I've yet to encounter.

I'm borrowing this computer from the captain of S/V Sarana... one of the most progressive cruisers getting after it lately... check him out... http://www.sailsarana.com/

I'm trying to live without money but I need it to keep this thing afloat... I could easily sink $5000 into the boat without batting an eye.

$5000 in SAFETY and BASIC FUNCTIONALITY... those kind of upgrades.

Anyone who feels like donating should... $20 will go way farther than you'd imagine.

From here, Kevin and I are going to climb Cerro Chirripo, the highest point in CR with views of both oceans.

After that, Kevin flies home and I'm headed into PANAMA... to the surf spot SANTA CATALINA and beyond.

Real adventure in Northern Columbia is just a few hundred miles beyond.

The border of Peru is less than 1000 miles as the crow flies.

La frontera de Chile? Closer than San Diego, USA.

We're getting SOMEWHERE.

Gotta go.

MAX