7.28.2009

Mal Pais

After a week of dodging big closeouts and crackheads in Dominical we picked up an expedition photographer and headed north to Bahia Herradura.


We looked forward to surfing the ¨world class wave¨ at Playa Escondida so we headed straight there... on a very big day. There were 30 guys in the water and sitting deeper was the only way to catch anything.


I didn´t respect the wave enough and almost got killed when I fell on the first wave of a big set. After taking four on the head I noticed a very large rock right behind me... things got worse... I got all cut up and beat up... had to ditch my board when my leash got tangled in the reef and was holding me under.... sliced the shit out of my feet hopping on the reef between piles of whitewater... my board washed up eventually... and now it´s a seriously dinged up piece of shit.


Standing safely on the reef I spent the next 15 watching people riding one hell of a beautiful wave. I was joined by a Tico and a Gringo who had also gotten washed ashore by the big set... the gringo´s board was broken in half... the Tico had some nasty scrapes... this made me feel a bit less moronic.


The crew could only handle the disgustingness of development in Bahia Herradura for one night.... and the marina wouldn´t sell us gas because we´re poor... so we set sail at dawn across the Gulf to the Nicoya Peninsula.


Now the boat is (hopefully still) anchored in Tambor and we´re all in Mal Pais. Hugh snapped his board and is living on credit so he´s off to Canada for work. Tu Laki seems to be going his own way as well. And the photographer seems to have arrived a bit too late to capture any hint of magic the little voyage held.


Everything else is up in the air.


The boat is up for sale. Cheap, too. I´m hoping someone bites because I´m ready for a change... ideally pocketting some dough and surfing a month from the comfort of $10 a night rooms while dealing with the realization of reentry.


Culture shock? Sin Fin has been another planet.


I am, however, looking forward to catching up with family, old friends, and the Teets.


Anyone want a boat?


Max