Hey All,
6-7 foot swell has me stopped at Pavones... which is breaking a half mile left at the present... I can see it from the beachfront bar/internet cafe from whence I write.
My surfboard fucking sucks... I really miss the board Dave was letting me borrow... cést la vie, no.
I´ll be here for a few days and then heading for more surf in Santa Catalina, PANAMA.
A local fisherman just informed me that my boat is about to get thrashed... the last set almost took it with.
What a considerate gentleman.
Gotta go.
MAX